Little Breaks single work   essay  
Issue Details: First known date: 2022... 2022 Little Breaks
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'ONCE WE’VE PEELED OFF the wetsuits and packed up the boards, we are quiet. The car ride home is scored with the sound of sniffing, as though in grief, though it is really the ocean emptying out of our sinuses. There is no need for speech. It is a soft quiet, a golden quiet. In the driver’s seat, my partner is thinking about his turns, the way he twisted his body to pull the board against the wave, flitting up the fist of the sea. Next to him, I am thinking about how, one day, I might be able to stand up without screaming. I am what surfers refer to as a kook, which is to say: I am terrible at surfing. In every possible way, I am an embarrassment to the art of standing on the ocean. I was terrible at it when I started, and I am terrible at it now, and I love it.' (Introduction)

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  • Appears in:
    y separately published work icon The Monthly September 2022 25065683 2022 periodical issue 2022 pg. 42-44
Last amended 2 Sep 2022 08:38:01
42-44 Little Breakssmall AustLit logo The Monthly
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