'MY FATHER USED to say to me, ‘If you’re not into sport, you’re not really Welsh.’ It was not something he ever said to my sisters, with its connotations of manliness; just me. However, at thirteen, the only sport I was devoted to was surfing. But surfing was not a sport he could recognise. Not a team game, nor endemically Welsh – it looked to him effeminate, and the deeper I got into it the more he distanced himself from me.' (Introduction)