'It took a long time to get to 80 Mile beach. We drove in three-car convoy, stopping off when we needed to and wanted to. We saw stromatolites at Hamelin Pool, and spent New Year at a motel in Exmouth. At the beach - which used to be called 90 Mile, until somebody decided to measure it - the sand swirled thick through waves which rolled and rolled and rolled, turning quickly into foam, dragging us along the shoreline.'